As part of my 20+ hour check I decided to try adjusting the valves, even though I have never done it before. With the service manual print-out of page 3-3, 4 and 5 it was a pretty easy and straight-forward job. Removing and re-installing all the plastic trim to get to the valve covers took longer than the actual valve check. The 'crankshaft end accessing screw' is actually a cap with a large female hex socket in the middle of it that is used for removing it. It takes a very large allen wrench or a special tool to fit into the hex recess.
I thought that I was screwed until I got a tool to fit the hex, but I looked at my workbench, and there was a 3/8' bolt sitting there that looked close to fitting that hex. It almost fit, I had to grind it down just a touch to make it a perfect fit. The pic shows a custom-made bolt-visegrip tool that worked, LOL. I'll make something a little more professional before I pull that cap again.
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A 7/8' six-point socket is all you need to turn the crankshaft and align the marks to TDC as directed. A valve-adjusting feeler gauge set worked best, the straight feeler gauge was harder to work with. I got my set at Sears. As luck would have it, all the valves were within specs, and the clearances were on the upper end. The forums say that the clearances tend to tighten, so I left them as is. Since you have to pull the sparkplug to do this, I cleaned and gapped it before putting it back. I can see why they charge $125 and up to do this, you spend more time getting access to the valve covers, and then putting everything back together, then you do actually adjusting the valves.